Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week – what was there, what wasn't

 Dior atelier in Paris, from the book "Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier"

So Haute Couture Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2012 has just ended and here is my personal view on the subject. The thing about haute couture is that to really appreciate the collections you have to see them personally and analyze every detail. Photos on websites just can't tell you the whole story. Sometimes from the pictures you can get the vibe of more extravagant collections like in case of previous John Galliano collections for Dior. However, usually the true value of haute couture is in the precious fabrics, little details, sewing techniques and rich embroidery. That's why I think what Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy Haute Couture is a rather smart move. Simple presentations for a selected group of guests who can watch closely every model. No need for spectacular runway shows, celebrities in first row and paparazzi madness. Simple presentation, just like back in the day when designers hosted fashion shows in their own studios and while the models walked slowly, designers would talk to the press and explain all about the collection, fabrics and inspiration. 

After 8 years Versace has came back to Paris HC Week. The collection itself, however, had little to do with haute couture and frankly some of their past ready-to-wear collections were better structured and even more glamorous than this one.

Another thing I believe is missing at Paris HC is the brand Alexander McQueen. I always thought that his collection, and now those designed by Sarah Burton, are way more couture than ready to wear... Maybe next year.